The long term collaboration between PUMA xUndefeated Collection t offers a new design detail that appears for the first time on a classic Clyde design: the toe cap. Coverblock Clydes use high quality suede in four great colour options that follows the monochromatic trend.
This exclusive collection is available in Fabiani stores in South Africa and retail for R999. For further information please call PUMA on 021 551 0832.
The fact that I receive a flood of hits any time I mention James Franco makes the following cover no surprise. Man of the Decade? That's quite a statement, but okay then. He has had a rather successful run lately. The cover was shot by Inez can Lamsweerde and Vinhoodh Matadin for the Decade issue which collaborated with, among others, Karl Lagerfeld and Terry Richardson as they look at 150 years of men's style.
shirtless james franco, cover, hollywood james franco, fashion, shirtless,
Levi's have just released a series of monochrome coloured jeans designed as a key foundation to a modern and relaxed look. I couldn't agree more, these are the perfect tones because the possibilities are pretty endless. Dress these up or down, it's up to you and what's better is they are priced really, really reasonably-- R699! I'm liking the petrol blue for myself. What do you say?
A video for the release of the newest Topman fragrances which will accompany a grooming range. After 5 careful years of research have decided not to create their fragrance with large corporate licensing agencies but to do it all themselves with the help of Azzi Glasser the creator of Agent Provocateur parfum.
The range is already available from Topman Oxford Circus and Selfridges department stores exclusively in London.
topman top man topman fragrance, perfume, grooming range.
Positive Heroes returns this year with a fashion event that hopes to speak out against the stigma of HIV. We went last year and it was a great success. Now, on November 3rd you can get all dressed up and attend the event held at the Cape Town Civic Centre.
Tickets to attend cost R200, the proceeds of which will be used for core organisational funding and various Positive Heroes initiatives. The fashion show will be divided into two halves, daywear and eveningwear, with a short auction of incredible fashion prizes, facilitated by Auction Alliance’s Ariella Kuper (who is fantastic), following each section.
In addition to this Springleap.com and The Cape Town Fashion Council (CTFC) have launched a unique design competition entitled ‘Inspire Courage’. The competition invited creatives to produce a design that encapsulated the courage needed to overcome stigma and embodies the Positive Heroes concept of ‘ordinary people living extraordinary lives’.
Voting is taking place in the week of the 24th October. The winning designer will receive a prize of R10 000 and two runner-up prizes of R2 000 will be awarded. The design will be featured on volunteer T-shirts at the Positive Heroes fashion show as well as on printed A0 canvases available for auction on the night. Post-event, winning designs can be purchased on the Springleap.com website with proceeds going to the Positive Heroes initiatives.
Date: Thursday 3rd November 2011 Venue: Entrance Foyer of the Civic Centre, 12 Hertzog Boulevard, Cape Town Time: 6.30pm for cocktails, show starts 8.00pm Ticket prices: R200 unreserved seating Available from Computicket www.computicket.com
The African fashion awards are set to take place tonight. Guests have been finalized, a catering company hired and wait staff prepped to help the event run smoothly. Then later, anxious nominees will be listed and the winner will stand to collect their award and say a few words. Categories like Outstanding Contribution to Fashion Styling or even Fashion Communicator of the Year were included.
But there will be no presenter handing an award in a menswear category because there simply was no category of this kind. You would not be wrong in thinking this odd. Only last year the Best Menswear Designer in Africa award was given to Stiaan Louw for his progressive work. Have things changed so much since then that a major category is absent from the awards? Add to that the absence of a single menswear show for AFI fashion week which began on Thursday in Johannesburg.
It begs the question: What is going on with menswear in our country, our continent?
My first thought was to contact AFI directly but unfortunately, after numerous emailing and phone call inquiries no one was able to answer my concerns. Even Neil Doveton, Head of Menswear at 36 Boutiques inquired and their response was “No menswear designers..." No menswear shows or African based designers nominated? What about Ephymol, David West, Adriaan Kuiters, Suzaan Heyns, Port, Stiaan Louw, Naked Ape, Carducci, Fabiani or MaXhosa? Neil said “It is truly a sad state of affairs when there is absolutely no presence of menswear in one of our biggest fashion calendar events.”
Menswear needs a category to inspire a struggling medium. Cancelling such an award feels like we have given up on menswear altogether when we still have enough time to provide support. Even if we help current menswear survive what can we say of those looking to make a career of men’s fashion in the future? I recently gave a talk to 2nd year students at Elizabeth Galloway and I casually posed the question of who was planning to design menswear. No one raised a hand, only two, after prompting said they would probably try a little.
So how many of those students end up designing? How many of them end up as merchandisers or buyers? “Is it because menswear is more challenging?” asks Neil Doveton “Are we rushing after the quick-buck and easy-to-make and avoid the artisanal skills and complexities of menswear design?”
But let’s not point fingers, there are far too many elements that contribute. Let us rather draw attention to the bigger picture. Firstly, why are there so few menswear designers in South Africa? For starters the market is very small, but the reason behind it can’t be a lack of a male consumer. A large portion of South African men know how to dress and, provided there was more to choose from, would not be far behind our international counterparts. Neil personally finds the lack of local menswear “a bit insulting to the South African man. Menswear in S.A is in dire straits.” Adding that he wishes designers would “acknowledge us for who we have become!”
David West, who designs for both men and women, says that poor fabric adds to the problem, especially when considering the prices a designer must charge for the end product. To make matters worse the expenses to produce a range are very expensive for the bad production facilities and poor workmanship. So what does that mean for our chances of exporting? It’s possible but again, too expensive and where would their clothing be housed? To be profitable it would have to be at a lower end store. It is the case even on a local scale where stock is ordered on a consignment basis. The garments come in at a high price range and additionally they want input in the design. Stiaan adds “You are competing with retailers who are producing similar product in China at a lower price point, better fabrics and obtainable with account/payment terms” As it is there aren’t many good menswear outlets, especially in Johannesburg. The cost of having your own store and overheads of running your own label are enormous. Imagine the amount of product you would have to sell to break even. Another option would be to sell from their studio but how would that bring in substantial turnover?
Showing at fashion week(s) can only help so much, but the platform, as David West calls it is “splintered”. Obviously politics aside, having one fashion week would be far better. Derek Geddes of Elizabeth Galloway, a fashion school in Stellenbosch, believes that South African menswear designers do not understand the psyche of the male consumer, releasing looks onto a runway with the “pomp and splendor of a Yankee Doodle”. Agreeable when you see a model walk a show in a silver suit made from sheen material. Or, as I experienced at AFI fashion week early this year, a show creating the opulent, if not arrogant illusion of a man about town when the buttons of his double-breasted suit were not even aligned. However, those designers who do get it right in execution and styling aren’t always able to show their work unless a sponsor is involved.
Derek suggests that we have a dedicated day for menswear at fashion week, but while they would need to focus and hone their skills the most important factor to consider would be a viable retail presence, and in his opinion they should only be considered to show if this is the case. Surely initiating a strong standard would benefit future designers looking to make a name for themselves in menswear.
This is already the case for a flooded ladieswear market that had Stiaan Louw (previously a womanswear designer) step back to watch a change occur. This shift in the market was due to men becoming more style conscious and aware of international trends (with the help of the media explosion), but without access unless they travelled.
So what do men need from a designer? A place to purchase local designers, for one thing. Derek offers a solution by proposing the establishment of a fashion retail council that sponsors retail space on a long term basis. With that the general public would finally have a place to purchase local garments directly. If that doesn’t work how about getting brands like Mr. Price or Edgars to release capsule collections of local menswear designers like they do for women. This kind of change is important when you consider the list of international brands looking to sink their roots into our already dying menswear market. Once Zara opens their doors what will become of us?
If anything now is the time to put our focus on this problem. The public wants access to international trends and yet they want to support local design too. Chosing to ignore menswear until it rights itself is not an option.
So now what?
Update: Congratulations to Ozwald Boateng for winning the Best international designer.
I spent the day in LA making a fun video with the lovely Brad Goreski to highlight DVF's fall shoe collection. You can check out my video as well as the three other fabulous bloggers who participated here.
H&M introduce their latest collaboration. This time Versace take their duds down a notch (hardly though) so that the average Joe can get their hands on them. This is a first look at the look book of what will be available very very soon. I don't imagine this stock will sit around for long though. Take a look at the images below. What do you think about the pink suit? I definitely would. I see a lot of classic Versace looks. Get there early, boys.
The Blade runner has raced passed the competition this year as he took home the top prize at GQ's best dressed awards. Oscar Pistorius didn't cross my mind when making my list but it makes so much sense. And who knew the camera loved him so much?
I tweeted that I stumbled upon the top 50 list in the paper and low and behold even I was on there. Good fun. Check out the video here.