Stiaan Louw's show, although highly anticipated, came out of nowhere and knocked me over. I have heard about this collection for a long time. I've discussed many of it's details in depth with the designer. But I didn't prepare myself to be so bowled over by a collection such as this. There will be readers who will frown at this statement but they must understand the difference between wearable fashion and art. I watched one particular show that had seemingly no original thought in it's design or execution. In fact it was wrongly arrogant without any backing.
We arrived at the Johannesburg Art Gallery and were soon after ushered to our seats. Word of the event being over capacity made sure we stayed put. Within the hour we saw this as a blessing because even the front row had to make space for extra's. At the following show we found out a certain famous local actress was content to sit at the feet of a magazine stylist. Some poured over stairs and corners and many were turned away altogether asked to watch from monitors outside.
What I deeply appreciated about this show was the lack of two things: Stiaan's name anywhere and the presence of theatrics. His models walked without emotion. They were cold and detached. It was like witnessing these men in some parallel universe walking around their tribes, mud caked on their feet and forearms. I allowed my imagination to wander. I tried to picture where Stiaan was sending these men off to. The Roman influence of some of the garments told me they were off to war. There were dots of Greek influence and of Samurai. In fact so many countries were included but never in an obvious way. You almost have to look the pieces individually to see this.
This collection also includes a surprising addition. Colour! All natural tones but then added with antique jewelry by Ida Elsje and neon accessories from Missibaba that enhanced the darker tones beautifully. The sandals are an updated version of the kind I wore as a 90's kid. A play on a Grecian or Roman sandal perhaps but completely wearable for any modern man.
In fact this collection sees mostly wearable styles, and dare I say he included commercial pieces like the stitched T-shirts and a drop-crotch ensemble which looks like it belongs to a casual New Yorker. Yes, he darkened a few models skin, yes he lightened others. It didn't even matter when images were projected onto the walls with a white model painted black. His clothing speaks for itself and the model is merely a canvas. There is no hidden meaning. These models are the children of a wold that Stiaan has created, and believes in. A white man in african attire? Gasp. The world has moved on and this collection celebrates that evolution.
UPDATE:
I found this video of the above-mentioned show on youtube courtesy of teeteeiswithme for your viewing pleasure!
Pictures property of Simon Deiner / SDR and Manofthecloth.
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