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Tuesday, August 17, 2010

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Never the country to conform, South Africa, or more precisely Cape Town took Fashion Week and turned it into more of a Fashion Weekend. Three Days and Fourteen shows which at times included two or more different designers. There were shows which allowed 5th and 6th row attendees to move closer to fill the odd empty seat, and then when it came to the heavy-weights like Kluk CGdT and Stefania Morland there wasn't an empty seat in the house. As a special touch Morland's show was pleasantly gifted with baby-tree's for the guests of the first five rows, to tie in with the earthy tones that inspired her exquisite show, no doubt.

AFI Cape Town Fashion Week, or #CTFW as it has been dubbed on Twitter seemed to include a lot more theatrics than prior shows. Viyella took us on a virtual train ride from Cape Town to Cairo and then serenaded the audience with Opera Singers while the breakdancer, who ended Craig Native's show nearly took out Robyn Cooke in the front row.

VIYELLA was a highlight for me. I didn't go into the show consciously expecting anything but from the fabric choices to the styling I was very impressed. The show, which was divided into about five parts introduced part one in a pastel theme. This was my favorite choice and instantly reminded me of the Dandies of Congo. The fresh colour against the dark skin of the models worked beautifully together. There were so many good points; slanted cuff jackets, elbow pads and the most peculiar but lovely bow-ties. Fashion that is ready to wear.

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There was detailing the photographs couldn't always pick up. This made me realize you can't really judge the design without seeing the workmanship up close. Luckily I was able to view the pieces and I will never judge pictures from a show again. There really is a reason the best of the best are seated in the front row. Even from the second row you can catch the most pleasant details (and hurried finishes).

DAVID WEST made a clever choice. He decided it was time to redefine the mould of a model and included a small army of unusual if not awkward models. The prints were large and played off of solid colour blocks and the materials were the odd sort you expect from West. It was a small collection to say the least but all the pieces, unlike a certain designer, were carefully chosen instead of merely put on the ramp with whatever would go.

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CRAIG PORT delivered an all white and grey collection. Hopefully this was merely for show and the colourful garments are on their way, but the overall look was classic Port; trousers and shirts built to fit snugly on the broad shoulders they were modeled on. There are hints of influence from Armani and Dolce and Gabbana but they are camouflaged with Ports experimentation with new finishes. It also wouldn't be a Port show without swimwear and judging from the audience reaction I'd say it was a success. He is definitely on the move toward something different and I am interested to see what that is.

CRAIG NATIVE. I particularly enjoyed the acid washed/tie dyed denim in this collection. However I would have styled it with a bright opposing colour to really show it off. While conceptually certain looks worked I wasn't overly impressed with the lack of fit with garments that should have been fitted, making the overall look sloppy. I think that alone would have made a big difference.

All photo's taken by the talented Simon Deiner and can be located here.

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